A long, long time ago in a place far, far away

I should have made a new year's resolution or something. Post things right away, instead of waiting until you've forgottten all the details. Except that the only new year's resolution I've ever kept was the time I resolved not to make any more new year's resolutions, because not only do I not keep them, but it's a stupid tradition anyway. Why engage in failed self-reflection and self-improvement once a year, when you can do it all the time? Wait, that didn't come out right...

I had this lovely idea that I'd tell you about my vacation. Sure, it's not music, but it was fun. But now, it's so long ago and seems so far away. Of course, I just went to the coast. It's not that far away. I stayed in this little attached-cottage thing with a fireplace and an oblique view of the ocean, with huge rocks sending up great sprays of salt water as the tide came in on the sorta-private beach. Technically, there are no private beaches in Oregon, but there are plenty of beaches that are impossible to reach because they're surrounded by cliffs. This hotel, The Surfrider, just north of Depoe Bay, built stairs down the cliff to the otherwise impossible beach, so you can only reach it from the hotel. Or by kayak, or helicopter or something. The cottage was charmingly dated, probably built in the 1950s and last redecorated in the 1970s, and I loved it (the rest of the place seems condo-ish and...well, nice, if you like that sort of thing). I ate a massive amount of local and/or regional seafood (if I couldn't drive there the next day on a whim, I wouldn't eat fish that came from there). Some was astounding, like the fish and chips at Luna Sea fishery/fishmonger/tiny lunch spot in Yachats. I picked up a can of smoked tuna there that made a beautiful sauce for pasta. Some was only so-so, like the Huge-Ass Mound Of Seafood platter (or something like that) at Gracie's Sea Hag. Anyone who tells you it's one of the better places to eat on the coast hasn't been there in 20 years. I had good clam chowder (Rogue Public House in Newport, where I went primarily for the beer), and dull clam chowder (a little diner in Depoe Bay). As you can tell, vacation for me is all about the food.

And drink. I visited several wineries, including a very fun if somewhat ill-advised (by the time I had a beer at bowling that night, I was flat-out drunk) tour through the wine country of Dundee on my way home. On the coast: Flying Dutchman, calling themselves the only winery on the Oregon coast, had a couple of interesting wines. The Wine Cave or whatever it's called in Depoe Bay had mostly fruit wines from Nehalem Bay winery--fun, silly, and lacking complexity. The real grape wines (I don't remember who they were from, but probably just as well) were dull and watery tasting, and also lacking in complexity. They had a marechal foch, but even that wasn't any good. In the valley: Archery Summit, all pinot noirs, was pretty fascinating stuff, but crazy expensive. I had a long talk with a former Multnomah County commissioner who was also there tasting, about mental health funding. De Ponte Cellars also had some worthwhile stuff, and an incredible view! And by the time I got to Argyle, I was beginning to get a bit loopy. But I do remember that many of their wines are better and more interesting than the few of theirs you can get in the grocery store, and perhaps more worth the money. I also visited Rogue Public House in Newport (the home base of the Rogue empire). I got a sampler at the public house. Juniper Ale: Eh. A mild, sweet-ish pale ale that was not strongly junipery nor hoppy. Santa's Private Reserve: Hoppy and malty, maybe a bit too malty-sweet-sour for me. But the hop aroma was lovely and perfumey, just like I like it. Sesquicentennial Ale is made with lots of local ingredients for the state's 150th birthday. It's supposed to feature local hops, but what I noticed first was the spice flavors--almost rootbeery (but in a good way, I swear!). It was a dark honey color, and eventually settled down into a nice IPA style, though again, maltier than I like. Mocha Porter: Very toasty and roasty! Definitely accurately named, with clear bittersweet chocolate and coffee flavors. The texture was a bit flat, like a nitro but not. This was my favorite of the bunch. I brought home a Smoke Beer, which is a traditional German rauchbier. This one knocked me on my ass with its unbelievable awesomeness. It was like a deep honey-colored pale ale, and smoking the malt totally killed the sweetness and sour notes. Very smoke-flavored, and it was perfect to drink in front of the Petroleum-Based Wood Replacement Product fire, because the smoke aroma made up for the lack of wood fire smell! Lighter in color and malt flavor than other rauches I've had. Amazing. I also brought home a Yellow Snow IPA, which was damn good, and didn't suffer from the imbalance in malty sweetness that the other IPA-like beers did.

Aside from the eating, and drinking, and eating, and drinking some more, I did actually spend quite a bit of time both taking pictures of the ocean, and then putting the camera away and staring meditatively at it as it crashed and sprayed and lit up from behind. This is why I go to the coast in the winter. The vastness of the ocean, and the unhuman scale of its power, makes me feel very small, and it's the closest I get to a spiritual experience.

While driving up and down the coast between tiny towns, I was listening to lots of new stuff I've just acquired, but the one that spent the most time in heavy rotation was the new Point Juncture, WA disc, Heart To Elk. The week before, I'd seen their CD release in-store at Music Millenium. That show had a comparatively stripped-down, rock-esque sound with more guitar (and more guitar that sounded like guitar, rather than sounds from beyond the grave or a frightened animal, or a frightened animal from beyond the grave...) and no vibraphone. No vibraphone? It's like someone slipped a little Portland into their drinks while they weren't looking...but just a little. The disc is still refreshingly un-Portlandy. Un-punk, un-geek, un-americana. The class beauty (the quiet one who might also have been valedictorian), not the class clown. Amanda Spring's voice is like a muted bell, and the recording enhances that; Victor Paul Nash's voice is recorded to match. Orchestral and layered, with vibraphone (whew!), rich and lush yet also simple, built around unadorned vocals. The best way for me to describe this band is if a band of aliens encountered rock effects pedals and had no idea how they were used, so they made up their own uses for things like squealing guitar distortion, using it more like a violin than like a wailing assault of noise.

And all this was more than a month ago, so more to come! I'd offer previews, but it's probably just more efficient to start the next damn post. 'Til soon, imaginary readers!